Tor Des Geants - An Italian Adventure, Part II

One of the unique aspects of the Tor des Geants is that it is basically a "single stage adventure run" of 330km, but you have 7 days to complete it. Basically, the race has a start and a finish and in between there are aid stations and 7 major "life bases" where you can get a meal, a shower and a bed. As a competitor, you're free to use those resources however you like to get you to the finish line as fast or as slow, as you like. You're expected to be largely self sufficient and carry your own gear and food. We each had the luxury of one small duffle bag which was transported between the 7 life bases. My game plan was to run the race like a tourist. Use the life bases. Run around 50km a day, eat, sleep and take lots of photos. I didn't want to miss any of the scenery and my goal was to simply to get to the finish line.

Craig Slagel

The race started with a leisurely lap through the streets of Courmayeur and then hit the trail pretty quick. After our town tour, the trail turned upward and we started our first climb of the race: a 1,400m ascent out of the gate. This was a great way to start out the day and spread out the competitors. For us, it was a good time to socialize with the friends as we all walked up the pass, eyes wide open, taking in all of the new scenery of this strange and wonderful land.

Glen and Doone

Our first pass of the day, Col D'Arp at 2,571m greeted us with open arms and blue skys. We enjoyed a high alpine pasture land dotted with chairlifts, occasional farms, cows and history.

Col D'Arp

It's what makes the Alps unique and different - between the patches of wilderness, there are people living, thriving and working in the high alpine. We passed through both: land that was high, remote and wild and land that was high, remote but dotted with refugios, farms, cows and grazed land. Both were amazing.

Ang and her new friend

As we descended off Col D'Arp and down to the village of La Thuile, we rapidly dropped 1,200m. This would set the tone of the race: huge epic climb, followed by huge epic descent. Jaw dropping scenery. Repeat. On this day, we would do this 3 times.


On this first descent, I struck up a conversation with Max and elderly gentleman, from Chamonix. Max was local, well in to his 60's and appeared to be blind in one eye. He was kicking ass. As we gazed at the glacier across the valley, and he told us the names of the surrounding peaks, he told us that we would eventually be climbing up to the glacier. As I translated for Angela, she rapidly asked, "Today?!?" Max laughed at loud and replied "Bien Sur! Of, course!"


The first major aid station was in La Thuile and we got our first glimpse of the food being offered. We had cheese, bread, dried meats, salami, dark chocolate, a huge bowl of prunes, a huge bowl of dark chocolate, cookies and sparkling water, red wine and beer to round up the buffet. It was good entertainment to see some of the Euros partaking, evidently, beer is good fuel. I made up a couple of sandwiches and Angela and I, hit the road. It was already mid-afternoon and we still had 2 more passes to climb.

Ciao Bella!

This expression always reminds me of a time in my life when I was a free moving, free living, roaming, traveling girl. I didn't do the normal backpacker thing, I spent almost 2 years traveling and working my way through Europe. The one time during my trip when I came close to running out of money, I headed to Greece. I figured it would be better to run out of money on an island, in a pretty place and I would find myself a job as soon as possible. It all worked out and I found employment and a great community of travelers in Rethymnon on the big island of Crete. I lived a few blocks away from the harbor and the beach and had just enough money to subsist on.


One of the memories I have of this wonderful city, was being verbally "checked-out" by the Italian men while walking the promenade on the beach. What they would say when they saw a pretty girl walking their way is "Ciao, bella!" I think it translates to: "Why hello, beautiful!"

I would hear this every day while strolling in town. Instead of this "compliment" having the intended effect of flirtation, this young Canadian girl would cringe inwardly and skulk nervously away every time. A little culture clash.

My time spent in Italy was a little more limited. I spent a couple of beautiful spring days in Torino, which was first time in Italy and a very accidental trip. I had gotten on the train in France and ended my day in Italy. I spontaneously got on the first train that pulled into the station and rolled into another world a few short hours later. I was overwhelmed to say the least, but it was all serendipitous - Torino was magical, the people warm and welcoming and the food divine.

There was also a short trip to Venice and a few days of getting lost in this one-of-a-kind place. My favorite cheap pastime was hanging out in the Piazza San Marco and people watching. As well as a not-so-good experience in the port town of Brindisi (known as Sleezy Brindisi in the backpacker world), these 4 experiences pretty much sum up my quality time with all things Italian.

Until now.

Naturally, I'm heading straight for the mountains, instead of the cultural centres of Rome, Florence and Naples. We'll have to save that for another trip. For this adventure, I'm heading to the Aosta Valley where I'm going to get the ultimate 330km mountain tour. I've signed up for the Tor des Geants a brand new race in the Italian Alps, starting and finishing in Courmayeur.

I've spent some time in Chamonix, which I think of as the "Banff" of France. Courmayeur is another mountain town on the Italian side at the base of Mont Blanc - only 30 minutes from Chamonix through the infamous Mont Blanc Tunnel.

The Tor des Geants is a one-of-a-kind format. Essentially, the race looks like it's a "supported fast-pack". There's aid stations, sleep stations, food stations, but you have to be self sufficient and carry all of your gear. It's one stage only, but you have 7 days to complete it. The winner will be the runner who completes the race in the shortest time, making his or her own decisions on when and how long to stop for rest and food.

The list of friends who have signed up is growing, so it's going to be a social extravaganza. The bottom line is: it's going to be awesome.

So, Ciao Bella Italia! I can hardly wait to meet your beautiful acquaintance and get to know you and your sweet mountain places just a little bit better.